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Author Topic: H/L Leopard 2A6 with DKLM metal hull  (Read 1668 times)

Offline scalawag

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H/L Leopard 2A6 with DKLM metal hull
« on: December 17, 2015, 11:36:17 PM »
Well here we go chaps, first of my build threads.

This is already a good way through so here is a run through of what has been done so far.

This started life as a standard H/L Leopard 2A6, I have added a DKLM metal hull, which while quite a price I totally recommend.  No more hull flex, better suspension than the H/L, and fits perfectly.

Here is a pic of the hull with the internal components added.



As you can see this is now using an IBU2 Pro control board, Tarr 1 smoke unit, audio amp, Viper volume control and an uprated speaker
The battery in this pic is a 2s LiPo, but this is now running a 3s LiPo instead.  Gearboxes are H/L 3.1 black steel.

All of my tanks are controlled using a Turnigy 9XR/9XR Pro with a FlySky XJT module, so there is a flySky X8R 8 channel receiver in there too.

This tank has servo turret rotation,  servo gun elevation and Hi intensity LED muzzle flash.

Here is a pic of the outside.


This tank has metal tracks with rubber pads, metal road wheels, sprockets,and idlers.

The headlights have been replaced with more accurate ones from AFV.  I have added an MG3 from AFV to the loaders hatch, this has a scratch built ammo can and a flexible ammo belt from the AFV modeller magazines web shop.  Since this photo was taken I have also replaced the turret baskets with tamiya ones.

This tank will be a standard German Army 2A6 in NATO 3 colour camo.  I intend to keep the H/L paint scheme for this as I think it is actually a really good starting point.

Here is a video which shows the IBU2 sound set for this tank, and also all the functions.

https://youtu.be/YEJeyaVsvio

This video was taken before the servo rotation and elevation where added and the song set has been tweeked a little too.  This vids shows rotation and elevation with the servos fitted.

https://youtu.be/vy0Xpt1xPwQ

and up to date now

Since getting the DKLM metal hull I have debating what to do about the misplaced rear lights.  In common with H/L, the 4 lights on the rear of the 2A6 are actually where the reflectors are on the real tank.  The actual rear lights are the 2 oblongs near the top reflectors on both side.

I decided today to move the lights to the correct position.  from the outside to the centre the lights in the leopards rear cluster are indicator/break/rear light.  So I drilled the rear light position in each cluster to take a 3mm LED, and then adapted the wiring to light these rather than the 4 existing LEDs.



The old LEDs have been left in place for now, but I have some reflectors on order from AFV, and I will use these when they arrive.

Next I made new lenses to cover the rear light clusters.  These where placed on masking tape for painting, and then the backs where given a coat of Tamiya clear red and clear orange as appropriate.  Once this had dried the backs where then given a coat of Tamiya chrome silver paint, but leaving the rear light section on each clear for the LED to be seen through.


Once these lenses are dried I will fit them on the rear light clusters using white PVA glue.  This goes clear when dry and so is less noticeable.

Paul
A member of: WMTC, SWAG, SEAG and SET in the UK
1/16: Pzr III, Tiger I (early), Tiger I (mid/late), M4A3 75mm, M4A3 105mm, ZTZ99a, Leopard 2A6, Leopard 1A5, M1A2 Abrams, M2A1 Bradley IFV, Challenger 2, JGSDF Type 10.
1/72: Challenger 1, M1A1 Abrams, T 72 M1, JGSDF Type 10.

Offline scalawag

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Re: H/L Leopard 2A6 with DKLM metal hull
« Reply #1 on: December 18, 2015, 02:57:21 AM »
The lenses have now dried and been attached to the back of the tank.  They have then had black lines added using a fine line permanent pen to represent the gaskets around the lenses, and to mark out the different lights.



Lights on


Lights off


Lights on



Paul
A member of: WMTC, SWAG, SEAG and SET in the UK
1/16: Pzr III, Tiger I (early), Tiger I (mid/late), M4A3 75mm, M4A3 105mm, ZTZ99a, Leopard 2A6, Leopard 1A5, M1A2 Abrams, M2A1 Bradley IFV, Challenger 2, JGSDF Type 10.
1/72: Challenger 1, M1A1 Abrams, T 72 M1, JGSDF Type 10.

Reaper332

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Re: H/L Leopard 2A6 with DKLM metal hull
« Reply #2 on: December 18, 2015, 06:38:15 AM »
Look fantastic Paul.... how did you do the servo turret rotation ...?  Thats something I would like to do on my Abrams.

Cheers Ken

Offline scalawag

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Re: H/L Leopard 2A6 with DKLM metal hull
« Reply #3 on: December 18, 2015, 07:13:03 AM »
Look fantastic Paul.... how did you do the servo turret rotation ...?  Thats something I would like to do on my Abrams.

Cheers Ken


No problem Ken,

The servo is plugged straight into the IBU2 Pro, and this controls the servo.  The settings for servo speed direction etc.. can be altered in a file on the IBU2 micro SD card.  This makes it easier to set up.

Here is a post from my Abrams build which shows how I mounted the servo.

As promised, a pic of the servo turret rotation mod.  Originally I had made a mount for the servo from plasticard and glued it to the servo and upper hull.  I decided this morning though that I didn't like it, so I have replaced it with mounts made from PCB standoffs.  These are hot glued to the hull, and then the servo is mounted to them with screws allowing it to be removed for servicing or replacement.  I am much happier with this solution.



I mounted the servo to the upper hull so that it sits tight to the hull wall when the hull halves are joined together.  It will sit between the hull and the battery box.

You will need a 360* servo or to mod a regular servo to 360* rotation.  Here is another post which shows how I modded the servo I used, and which components I used from the H/L rotation gearbox and how they were used.

Ok so here is a step by step of the mod I have been doing on HiTec HS-422 servos to make them continuous rotation for use as a Turret rotation servo in H/L tanks using the IBU2 Pro as a control system.  I apologise in advance that some of the pics are a bit blurred, but I think they still convey what needs to be done.  Other servos may need different modifications for this to work.

Firstly remove the top of the servo by unscrewing the 4 screws at the bottom of the servo.  This will reveal the gearbox of the servo which should look like this.



I have circled the final drive gear.  This needs to be removed from the gearbox, and the bearing than needs to be removed from the gear.  Which should then look like this.



On the top of the final drive gear you will see a moulded on block Circled in the next pic.  This needs to be removed, I used a razor saw for this.



Next going back to the servo body, you will see a small piece of whit plastic (circled) which sits over the end of the servos potentiometer.  This piece of plastic also needs to be removed.



The servos Potentiometer (circled) is there to adjust the "0" point of the servo normally.  Plug in and power on the servo which will probably start to run.  Adjust the Pot until there is no movement from the gears.  I find this is usually at a point close to where the pot is parallel with the long sides of the servo.



Next replace the bearing on the final drive gear, and replace the gear in the servo.  Check that the gear rotates freely in both directions.  At this point the servo should look like this.



Next plug in and power up the servo.  If it moves while there is no control input then the POT has been moved in reassembly.  In this case, disassemble the final drive gear and re set the POT so that there is no gear movement and replace the final drive.  Once you are able to plug in and power on the servo with no movement go ahead and test the movement of the servo with control input.  The servo should continue to rotate in either direction until the input is stopped.  Now put the cover back on the servo.

open up the H/L rotation gearbox which should look like this.



The final drive of the gearbox which meshes with the turret ring is circled, this also contains the clutch mechanism.  This must be removed.  Put the rest of the gearbox in your spares bin.
The gear you are left with should look like this




separate and discard the smaller toothed gear.  This leaves you the final drive gear and clutch which looks like this.  The clutch is circled and also needs to be removed.



leaving just the final drive gear which should look like this.



Centre this on the output shaft of the servo, and superglue it in place.



Lastly secure the gear in place using the servo securing screw.



Now you can mount the servo so that the  gear on the servo meshes with the turret ring (this will differ from model to model) and job done.

My Abrams is pretty much finished now, and as the build thread covers 20 pages I won't be transferring it here I don't think.  You can read it here:

http://rctankregiment.com/rctankforum/viewtopic.php?f=208&t=8625

Admins, I hope it is ok to post a link to another forum here, please delete if not.

I will post up some pics and videos of the tank here when I have time.
A member of: WMTC, SWAG, SEAG and SET in the UK
1/16: Pzr III, Tiger I (early), Tiger I (mid/late), M4A3 75mm, M4A3 105mm, ZTZ99a, Leopard 2A6, Leopard 1A5, M1A2 Abrams, M2A1 Bradley IFV, Challenger 2, JGSDF Type 10.
1/72: Challenger 1, M1A1 Abrams, T 72 M1, JGSDF Type 10.

Reaper332

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Re: H/L Leopard 2A6 with DKLM metal hull
« Reply #4 on: December 18, 2015, 07:36:58 AM »
Thanks Paul really appreciate it... seems relatively straight forward.... again mate fantastic work on all your stuff really top shelf, I think a lot of us will learn heaps from having you on here.... ;D

Cheers Ken

Offline scalawag

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Re: H/L Leopard 2A6 with DKLM metal hull
« Reply #5 on: December 18, 2015, 07:46:32 AM »
Thanks Ken,

You are very kind, and I am glad it was helpful.  I'm always happy to share what I know.

Paul
A member of: WMTC, SWAG, SEAG and SET in the UK
1/16: Pzr III, Tiger I (early), Tiger I (mid/late), M4A3 75mm, M4A3 105mm, ZTZ99a, Leopard 2A6, Leopard 1A5, M1A2 Abrams, M2A1 Bradley IFV, Challenger 2, JGSDF Type 10.
1/72: Challenger 1, M1A1 Abrams, T 72 M1, JGSDF Type 10.

Online Leo 2A6

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Re: H/L Leopard 2A6 with DKLM metal hull
« Reply #6 on: December 18, 2015, 04:06:59 PM »
Great info Paul thanks for sharing as Ken said great builds to follow.... 8) 8) 8)

Cheers Damo